Happy Monday, everyone! I hope you all had a great weekend.
Recently on the blog, I’ve been sharing the final leg of our Italy trip: the time we spent on the glorious Amalfi Coast. If you’ve been following along, you’ll know that we opted to make Sorrento our home base, and visit the other towns of the coast via day trips. (If you missed my recent posts on the best things to do and places to eat in Sorrento, you can read them here and here.) The Amalfi Coast has 16 different towns, so there’s lots to explore! But since we only had a few days to spend on the coast, we prioritized the places we wanted to visit most. The destinations we chose probably won’t surprise you, as they’re arguably the coast’s most popular spots: Capri, Positano and Amalfi. Over the next couple of weeks, I’ll be sharing guides to all three of these spots, starting with the beautiful island of Capri!
Capri is located in the Tyrrhenian Sea just off the Sorrentine Peninsula. The island is a very popular tourist destination, and with good reason! It’s world-renowned for its abundance of natural beauty: towering mountains, lush greenery, rocky grottoes, and of course, those sparkling blue waters. It’s one of those places that’s so stunning, it’s almost hard to believe it’s real – and if you’re staying on the Amalfi Coast, you truly can’t miss it! Today I’ll be sharing the details of our day trip to this enchanting island, starting with the important stuff…
Getting To Capri
There are a few different ways to reach Capri. One option is going by water taxi. You can also book a day tour of Capri that includes transfer to and from the island (Viator and Get Your Guide are good places to find these.) However, the most popular (and economical) way to get to Capri is by ferry. Ferries to Capri depart from both Naples and Sorrento. In the summer months (the busiest tourist season) they also run ferries from Positano, Amalfi, Ischia and Salerno. We took an Alilauro Gruson ferry from Sorrento to Capri, which cost 18 Euros per person. (The ferries deport from Sorrento’s Marina Piccola, not Marina Grande – be sure you head to the right place!) The ferry ride took just half an hour, and it was a fun trip: the views were gorgeous, and the crew kept everyone happy by serving drinks on board. We didn’t partake, but it was funny to see so many people drinking mini bottles of prosecco at 9am!
When I was researching this trip, some travel websites and blogs I read said that you could just show up at the ferry dock and book your ride on the day of your visit. I don’t recommend doing this, and would strongly advise that you book in advance for a couple of reasons. For one thing, the ferries don’t run nearly as frequently as I thought. (I was actually quite surprised by the sparse schedule, since Capri is such a popular destination!) The last thing you want to do is arrive at Marina Piccola and realize you have to wait an hour or two to get on board. Another reason: because Capri is so popular, ferry tickets sell out quickly. So to avoid delays or disappointment, I would strongly recommend reserving your ferry tickets online before the day of your visit.
Things To Do On Capri
Once you arrive at Capri’s Marina Grande, you’ll find there are plenty of things to see and do! You can…
Take in the sights of the sea via boat tour. Capri is famous for the stunning natural rock formations in its surrounding waters. Some of the most iconic are the Grottoes (Blue, Green and White) and the Faraglioni. A boat tour is the best way to experience them, and there are lots of different options to choose from. You can opt for a private tour: this is definitely the most luxurious way to do it, and prices typically start at around $500. You can also do a small group tour like this one, where you’ll share a smaller boat with just a few others (usually 10 people or so): the average cost of this is around $100. Or, you can do what we did – the most economical option – and do a shared tour on a larger boat. We booked our tour with Laser Capri, which cost 21 Euros (approximately $30 CAD) per person for a one-hour tour. We had a fabulous time and I highly recommend them! We got to see all the sights I mentioned above, along with some other famous landmarks (like the Punta Carena Lighthouse) and the captain kept us entertained with interesting facts about the history and geography of Capri.
If you want to book your own Capri boat tour, here are my best tips:
- Get your tickets early. There are several companies in Capri that offer similar tours to the one we took (HP Travel and Motoscafisti are other ones we considered) and you can either book in advance online, or just go to their ticket booth on the day of your visit. You won’t have trouble finding the ticket booths: there are several of them and they’re located all around Marina Grande, where the ferries dock. We didn’t book our tour in advance, but we did buy our tickets at 10am right when we got to Capri. The boat tours are very popular and run on a set schedule, and it’s not uncommon for that day’s tickets to be sold out by late morning. Keep in mind that we were here in late May, and while it was busy, it still wasn’t peak tourist season, which is June-August. If you’re visiting during summer months, you may want to book your tickets in advance online to avoid any disappointment.
- Line up for the boat early. We took a tour that departed at 10:45. After booking our tickets, we thought we’d wander around the shops of Marina Grande until it was time to leave. Well, we showed up 15 minutes prior to departure, and there was already a massive line of people who’d been waiting a long time. We just managed to squeeze on the boat, but apparently it’s common for tour operators to oversell tickets, so even when you book a particular time, it’s not guaranteed you’ll get on that boat. They may push you to the next tour, which may not depart for another hour or more. Another reason to line up early is to ensure you get a good seat. By the time we got on board, all the outdoor seats were taken, so the only option was to sit inside (there are windows, but you won’t get as nice of a view) or stand.
- Decide whether or not you want to see the Blue Grotto. This rocky sea cave is famous for the vibrant blue waters within its walls, and visitors are able to tour the inside via small rowboats. It’s one of the most popular attractions on Capri, and a major highlight of several boat tours. The boats take you to the entrance of the grotto, at which point you transfer to a rowboat (you also need to pay an additional 18 Euro entrance fee.) Laser Capri offers tours with and without Blue Grotto stops. We chose the option without, which may surprise some of you: why wouldn’t we want to see this incredible place? Well, we did, but we opted not to for two reasons. One: the opening to the grotto is extremely small, and visitors have to lay down on the rowboats to get inside. As a claustrophobe, this did not appeal to me in the slightest! Two: only a limited number of boats can be inside the grotto at any given time. Because of its popularity, waiting times to get into the grotto can be as long as two hours, and most tour operators have a policy that they’ll only wait a maximum of 45 minutes before turning around. Imagine waiting that long and not even being able to tour the grotto! At the end of the day, it’s up to you, and whether you feel the pros outweigh the cons – they didn’t for us, but if the Blue Grotto is on your bucket list, then go! I’ve heard that the inside of the cave is truly a magical experience.
Do some shopping by Marina Grande. The area by Capri’s main beach is filled with shops selling one-of-a-kind clothing, ceramics and souvenirs. Fashion-wise, Capri has a very distinct style: it’s breezy and beachy, fun and vibrant, yet casually elegant at the same time. Think crisp linen, lace details, bold patterns, and lots of blue and white (my favourite colour combo!) If that’s your style too, you’ll have a field day here. Capri (and the entire Amalfi Coast, actually) is known for their beautiful handmade ceramics, so pottery fiends will also be in heaven. If you’re a foodie, check out some of the shops selling local sweets and bottles of limoncello (many of them offer free tastings.) And if it’s souvenirs you’re after, you’ll find plenty! For a particularly unique memento, pick up a Capri Bell. These handcrafted bells come painted in a variety of charming designs, and according to local legend, they’re supposed to bring luck and prosperity to anyone who hears their chimes.
Enjoy panoramic sea views in Anacapri. The island of Capri consists of two municipalities: Capri and Anacapri. Anacapri is located on the highest point of the island, approximately 490 feet above Capri, and has the most incredible views. To get there, you can take a taxi, bus, or chairlift – or you can do what we did and walk it. If you decide to walk, be forewarned: this hike is not for the faint of heart! We honestly had no idea how challenging it would be until we got started (or we would have worn proper hiking clothes instead of sundresses and sandals!) The walk isn’t long – it’s only 3km from Marina Grande to Anacapri – but is it ever steep! The elevation gain is about 1150 feet; which is a considerable amount in such a short distance. The hike took us just under an hour. We had to stop for several breaks, and we were dripping sweat by the time we reached Anacapri… but the views more than made up for it. Although, if I had to do it again, I’d recommend taking the chairlift up, and walking back down – you’ll get all of the amazing views, without the workout!
Once in Anacapri, you can peruse the beautiful ceramic shops, indulge in free chocolate and limoncello samples at Nino & Friends, and…
Explore the incredible Villa San Michele. This stunning villa was the home of Swedish physician and author Axel Munthe, who built it in the late 19th century. Today, it’s a museum that houses Munthe’s impressive collection of sculptures (including a 3200-year-old Egyptian sphinx), engravings, mosaics and architectural fragments. Munthe once said of his villa: “My home shall be open for the sun and the wind and the voices of the sea – like a Greek temple – and light, light, light everywhere!” Indeed, the interiors are just gorgeous: elegant, minimalist, and yes, filled with lots of natural light. And as awe-inspiring as the house itself is, it’s the dreamy gardens that made me really fall in love with Villa San Michele. I could have honestly spent hours getting lost in their lush greenery and fragrant flowers. The gardens also happen to have one of the most spectacular panoramic views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the town of Capri below. Admission to Villa San Michele costs 10 Euros per person, which is well worth it – I think this museum is a must-visit!
Where To Eat (& Drink) On Capri
Caffè Augusto – We started our day in Capri with cappuccinos at this charming sidewalk café by Marina Grande. Because Tania and I love to experience as many different places as we can while traveling, we did a lot of café-hopping in Italy – breakfast might consist of coffee at one spot, followed by food at another. So after getting our caffeine fix at Caffè Augusto, we headed to…
Il Gabbiano – This restaurant is located just steps away from Caffè Augusto and has the loveliest waterfront patio. Beause Tania and I were both in the mood for something sweet, we treated ourselves to dessert for breakfast: a slice of lemon cake and a lemon cream-filled cookie. (Lemons reign supreme on the Amalfi Coast!) Both were delicious, especially the cake – it tasted so fresh and citrusy, and you could tell that it was made using fresh local lemons. It’s true what they say, it really is all about the ingredients. Eating cake and cookies for breakfast isn’t something we’d ever think to do at home – that’s why I love being in ‘vacation mode’!
Café Casa Oliv – This is Villa San Michele’s rooftop bistro, and it’s where we had lunch after touring the museum and gardens. The atmosphere can’t be beat: you’ve got the villa’s exquisite gardens on one side, and panoramic views of the Tyrrhenian Sea on the other. Tania ordered a grilled vegetable panini and I got the bruschetta, which each came with a side salad. After all the incredible pizza and pasta we indulged in on this trip, I can’t believe I’m saying this, but that bruschetta was my favourite meal I had in Italy. The simplest of dishes, yes, but it was the fresh, local, high-quality ingredients that made it so delicious. The ripe, juicy tomatoes and creamy mozzarella on that crisp toasted bread, topped with fragrant basil and drizzled with buttery olive oil… I can still remember how amazing it all tasted!
L’Isola Dei Sapori – After hiking back down to Marina Grande from Anacapri, we thought we deserved to treat ourselves to a drink. And not just any old drink, but something a little more special! This restaurant by the beach makes delightfully over-the-top cocktails, which are served in hollowed-out lemons and garnished with slices of fresh fruit. The cocktails aren’t cheap – we paid about 18 Euros for one – but they’re delicious, and big enough to share! You can also get a non-alcoholic version, which is served with just as much pizzazz.
Magnacumme – While we were waiting for the ferry back to Sorrento, we decided to indulge in another drink at this spot by the beach. They don’t have any indoor seating, but they do have a couple of small tables out front, and we were lucky enough to snag one. Tania ordered a Peroni and I got an Aperol Spritz, and they were kind enough to bring us a complimentary plate of fried vegetable bites to enjoy with our beverages. Magnacumme specializes in paninis, pizzette, fried seafood and pasta, all of which is served to-go. We weren’t hungry enough to order anything to eat, but if the yummy appetizers they brought us are any indication of the rest of their food, then I’m sure everything is delicious!
We had such a wonderful day in Capri, and I’ve really enjoyed reliving it through this post! If you’re visiting the Amalfi Coast, I highly recommend spending some time on this beautiful island. I hope this guide was helpful, and if you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I’d love to offer travel tips or advice wherever I can.
Hope you all have a wonderful week ahead!
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