Happy Monday, everyone! I hope you had a great weekend, and that you enjoyed my last post about the wonderful city of New Orleans – and why it belongs on your travel bucket list! On that note, did you see the recent snowstorm they just got? Maybe it’s just because I follow so many New Orleans-related accounts, but #SNOLA has been all over my Instagram lately. It’s the first measurable snowfall they’ve had in 15 years! Seeing the images of bead-bedecked snowmen and people skiing down Bourbon Street has been so funny and surreal. I wish I got that excited every time it snowed here in Ontario!
Wintry or not, New Orleans is a wonderland any time of year. When most people think of New Orleans, they probably picture the French Quarter: historic buildings, horse-drawn carriages, and partiers throwing beads off balconies. Established by French-Canadian naval officer Jean-Baptiste Bienville in 1718, the French Quarter (or Vieux Carré) is NOLA’s oldest neighbourhood, and its epicenter of tourism. With galleries and museums, shops and cafés, legendary restaurants and those infamous Bourbon Street bars, there’s no shortage of fun things to do in the FQ! And even though there’s plenty to explore in the rest of the city – stay tuned for my next post for more on that – there’s no arguing that a trip or two (or several) to the French Quarter is essential to any New Orleans experience. Today, I’m excited to share my best recommendations for this iconic neighbourhood! Without further ado, here are my favourite things to see and do in the French Quarter…
Visit Jackson Square and the St. Louis Cathedral. The 2.5-acre Jackson Square is the historic heart of New Orleans. It was established in 1721 as a military parade ground called the Place d’Armes (Place of Weapons.) In 1851, it was renamed Jackson Square in honour of President Andrew Jackson, who saved the city from British invasion during the 1815 Battle of New Orleans. Its most iconic landmarks are a 15-ton bronze statue of President Jackson on his horse, and the famed St. Louis Cathedral. Founded in 1720, the majestic 130-foot-tall building is the oldest Catholic cathedral in America still in continuous use. The cathedral is open to the public daily from 9-4, and you can take a self-guided tour for a $1 donation. If you want to explore freely and take pictures, be sure to visit outside of scheduled mass times. (Mass is held weekdays at 12:05pm, Saturdays at 5:00pm, and Sundays at 9:00am and 11:00am.) Beside the cathedral is the Cabildo: the original seat of Spanish Colonial City Hall, now part of the Louisiana State Museum. Tours of the Cabildo are available Tuesday-Sunday from 9-4.
Get a living history lesson. As one of America’s oldest cities, New Orleans has more history than you can shake a beignet at, and you don’t even have to set foot in a museum to experience it: just take a walk around the French Quarter! There are monuments and signs everywhere, educating visitors about NOLA’s rich and storied past. One of my favourite monuments is the gleaming golden bronze statue of Joan of Arc, a replica of the famous sculpture by Emmanuel Fremiet (the original is located in Paris.) One particularly interesting historic spot is Faulkner House Books: a quaint bookshop located in the former home of William Faulkner. And almost anything you order at a French Quarter restaurant or bar comes with a side of history: the notoriously haunted Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop (the oldest bar in the U.S.!) was once a secret pirate hideaway, and the wishing well at The Court Of Two Sisters is where famed voodoo priestess Marie Laveau practiced her rituals. While you’re walking around, don’t forget to look down: New Orleans is famous for its iconic blue-and-white ceramic street tiles, which date back to the 1870s.
Visit an art gallery. The French Quarter is home to some seriously incredible art galleries! My favourite is M.S. Rau on Royal Street. The three-story, 40,000-square-foot gallery houses thousands of fine artworks (including some very famous pieces) along with rare antiques and jewelry. They’ve been one of the world’s largest art and antique dealers since 1912, but don’t let that intimidate you! The team at M.S. Rau is so kind and welcoming, and they invite absolutely everyone – from serious collectors to curious tourists like me – to explore their space. They greeted us with big smiles, handed us maps and encouraged us to walk around and explore their free museum! Another great gallery on Royal Street is the Antieau Gallery, displaying the whimsical fabric appliqué and embroidery artwork of artist Chris Roberts-Antieau. There’s also the indoor-outdoor Adorn Gallery with its vibrant paintings and signs, and Disco Warehouse with its eclectic sculptures and quirky pop art… just to name a few!
Admire the architecture. Combining historic French, Spanish, Creole and American influences, French Quarter architecture is one-of-a-kind. With their ornate balconies, arched windows and vibrant colours, the buildings in the Quarter are exceptionally beautiful. Click here to read more about the different architectural styles you can expect to see in New Orleans – the French Quarter is best known for its Creole cottages and townhouses. Perhaps the most famous (or at least most photographed) building in the Quarter is the Miltenberger House at the intersection of Royal and Dumaine. (Well, technically it’s the Miltenberger Houses – it’s actually three rowhouses joined together!) The houses were commissioned in the 1830s by Marie Miltenberger, widow of Dr. Christian Miltenberger, a physician renowned for his contributions toward the treatment of yellow fever.
Peruse the French Market. Whether you’re looking for Mardi Gras masks, voodoo dolls, or New Orleans delicacies (gator on a stick, anyone?) you’re sure to find it at the French Market. This sprawling open-air market spans six blocks and has everything from handmade crafts and original artwork to antique relics and one-of-a-kind souvenirs. It’s a great place to pick up a memento that’s truly and uniquely New Orleans! There’s also tons of delicious food and drink vendors, so be sure to come hungry (and thirsty.) My top recommendations: ice cream daiquiris from the Gazebo Café (just as decadent as they sound), frozen Irish coffee from Molly’s At The Market (dangerously delicious) and NOLA’s favourite candy: classic Southern pralines! You’ll find pralines in practically every souvenir shop throughout the city, but two of the best are Aunt Sally’s Pralines and Loretta’s Pralines, both located at the French Market. I can’t tell you which one is better, so you’ll just have to taste-test both!
Tour the Old Ursuline Convent. The Old Ursuline Convent is the oldest building in New Orleans, the oldest women’s learning institution in the United States, and according to the National Park Service, “the finest surviving example of French Colonial public architecture in the country.” Located on Chartres Street, surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens, the Old Ursuline Convent is a peaceful respite from the hustle and bustle of the French Quarter. Built in 1745, it served as a convent, orphanage and girls’ school until 1824. It then lived successive lives as a meeting place for the Louisiana Legislature and a residence of the Archbishops of New Orleans. Today, the convent is a museum showcasing the significant influence of the Catholic Church on New Orleans history and culture. Guided tours are available for $8 every Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday at 10am, 11am and 1pm. On Tuesdays, self-guided tours are available for $6.
Visit a vintage apothecary. Founded in 1950, the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum is filled with fascinating artifacts and oddities that teach visitors about 1800s-1900s medical and pharmaceutical history. The museum is located in a circa-1822 Creole townhouse that was once the apothecary and home residence of Louis J. Dufilho Jr., America’s first licensed pharmacist. Here, you’ll find vials of all sorts of historical medical treatments: everything from traditional medicines, herbs and perfumes to some more questionable remedies that you likely won’t find at your local Rexall today: opium, voodoo potions, and jars of leeches. The museum is open Tuesdays-Saturdays from 11-4, and self-guided tours are available for $10. Guided tours cost $20 and are offered Wednesdays-Sundays from 10-11am.
Shop ’til you drop. I’m normally not a huge souvenir person (I usually limit myself to a magnet and a couple of postcards from wherever I visit) but New Orleans was a different story! I don’t know what it was – either NOLA’s got a seriously strong souvenir game, or I just loved the city so much that I wanted lots to remember it by – but I ended up with a sizeable souvenir haul! My favourite mementos: my mugs from Café Du Monde (don’t ask why I needed two), oyster shell necklace and decorative tile coaster from Fleurty Girl, oyster shell ornament from Christmas Quarters, and lucky “chanchito” pig from Marie Laveau’s House of Voodoo, a gift for my mom. All of these stores are great sources for cute, unique, non-tacky souvenirs (okay, the jury is out on the magnet…) Other favourite shops of mine include Roux Royale, Forever New Orleans, Toulouse Royale, and the vendors at the French Market. For something truly and uniquely New Orleans, pop into the Royal Mask Shop for a handmade Mardi Gras mask! Oh, and I still remembered my postcards – the little gift shop at the Hotel Monteleone has gorgeous, high-quality photo cards that I love.
Go antiquing on Royal Street. If you’re looking for a souvenir that’s truly one of a kind, you can’t go wrong with an antique. All of the gorgeous antique shops in NOLA had me wishing I brought a bigger suitcase! Royal Street, in particular, has a world-famous reputation as an antique lover’s paradise: it’s lined with countless shops and galleries selling beautiful vintage furniture, art, lamps, chandeliers… (seriously, so many chandeliers!) Some of my favourites include The French Antique Shop, Keil’s Antiques and Moss Antiques. Another must-visit is Bevolo: they’re known for their stunning copper gas lanterns, which they’ve been crafting by hand since 1945. Pop into their workshop to see the process in action – these lanterns are truly works of art!
Do that voodoo. The ancient mystical tradition of voodoo has a long history in New Orleans, and it’s still a very significant part of their culture. You may have heard of famed 19th century voodoo priestess Marie Laveau, who’s as synonymous with New Orleans as beignets and Mardi Gras. You can see Marie’s tomb at St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 (more on that in my next post!) and visit her shop on Bourbon Street. The shop is located in her daughter’s former home, and it’s where I got that “chanchito” pig I mentioned earlier! Another must-visit voodoo shop is Reverend Zombie’s on Royal Street. And if you’re into witchy things, don’t miss Hex Old World Witchery on Decatur: they sell incense, crystals and potions, and offer psychic readings and seances. If you’re interested in learning more about the history of voodoo and its ties to New Orleans culture, you can visit the New Orleans Voodoo Museum or book one of the city’s many voodoo tours.
Go balcony hopping on Bourbon. The French Quarter is synonymous with beautiful cast iron balconies, usually lined with revelers drinking, dancing and tossing beads – and not just during Mardi Gras! Balcony hopping on Bourbon Street is an essential New Orleans nightlife experience, but it’s not as simple as you may think: not all bars have balconies, and not all of them are free or publicly accessible (many bars rent their balconies out for a fee.) You’ll sometimes see promoters on Bourbon advertising free balconies, but my two top recommendations are the balconies at Tropical Isle (home of “New Orleans’ Most Powerful Drink”, the Hand Grenade) and Potions, the hidden vampire speakeasy above Fritzel’s Jazz Pub. Both are free (with a drink purchase) and publicly accessible – as long as you have the password for Potions! You can get the secret code by asking one of the staff members at Boutique Du Vampyre. Muriel’s, located a couple of blocks away from the hustle and bustle of Bourbon, is another fabulous balcony: it overlooks Jackson Square and has amazing views.
Listen to live jazz. Where better to hear live jazz than the birthplace of the genre itself? New Orleans’ association with jazz goes all the way back to 1819, when enslaved and free people of colour gathered in Congo Square (now Louis Armstrong Park) to sing, dance and perform African music. Although jazz has it roots in African and European musical traditions, it officially originated right here in New Orleans. And just as you wouldn’t go to Nashville without hearing some live country music, you can’t visit NOLA and not listen to live jazz! There are plenty of bars and clubs where you can catch a show: many of them have been around for decades and are cover-free – just grab a drink, relax and enjoy! Two of my favourites are the historic Maison Bourbon and Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub (home of the aforementioned vampire speakeasy.) Preservation Hall, circa 1961, is one of the oldest and most famous jazz clubs in New Orleans, but you’ll need to buy show tickets online in advance. Outside the Quarter, Frenchmen Street in the Marigny neighbourhood is another jazz hotspot – more on that in my next post!
Take a jazz cruise on the Steamboat Natchez. What’s better than live jazz in a bar? Live jazz on the last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi! The Steamboat Natchez offers daytime and evening jazz cruises, where you can enjoy a two-hour sail around the port of New Orleans while listening to live music from the Duxes of Dixieland jazz trio, and learning about the city’s history. Sandra’s friend Kaylee, who lives in New Orleans, joined us for the evening cruise and we all had a blast! The cruise is three hours long (the first hour dockside, the next two cruising) and costs $58 USD per person. They also offer a dinner buffet add-on for an additional $50. We skipped the buffet, but enjoyed our fair share of Carnival Cocktails from the on-board bar! Watching the sun set over New Orleans on this historic steamboat was one of my top highlights from our trip – and in my opinion, a must on any NOLA itinerary.
As you can see, there’s no shortage of fun things to see and do in the FQ! And that’s only one neighbourhood in New Orleans. (Now you can see why I wish we extended our trip!) Next week, I’ll be back sharing my recommendations for things to do outside the French Quarter. If you have any questions about my NOLA trip, free to comment or email me – I’m always happy to provide recommendations or advice wherever I can!
Until next time, laissez les bons temps rouler…
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