Exploring the best of Toronto and Southern Ontario.

Happy Sunday, all! I hope you’ve been enjoying following along with my Italy trip so far, and reading all about our adventures in Venice, Florence and the Cinque Terre. Today, I hope you’ll join me for a virtual trip to the next stop on our itinerary: Rome!

Rome is Italy’s most visited city, welcoming over 25 million tourists per year, and it’s easy to see why it’s so popular. Steeped in ancient history, it’s one of the world’s most fascinating cultural destinations. Whether you’re interested in its storied history or its world-renowned art, its impressive architecture or its delicious cuisine, the Eternal City truly has something for everyone. Now, Rome has its downsides as well, and I can confirm the rumours are true: for all its virtues, Rome is also crowded, chaotic, overpriced, and it’s not the cleanest city in the world. And even though I was admittedly disappointed in some of those things (I honestly couldn’t believe how much garbage and graffiti there was!) I am not at all disappointed that we went to Rome! It’s such a unique city, with so many memorable things to experience, that I couldn’t imagine visiting Italy without making a stop in Rome.

One of the things that impressed me most about Rome was its architecture. When I’m traveling, I frequently find myself stopping to snap photos of particularly beautiful buildings I pass. Well, in Rome, I found myself overwhelmed by just how many there were! I couldn’t walk a block without stopping to admire a particularly stunning, unusual or otherwise noteworthy building. Something I found especially fascinating is how Rome’s history blends seamlessly into the city’s landscape. You’ll see ancient ruins all over the city, standing next to (or perhaps even integrated into) restaurants, shops and hotels. And while they’re definitely distinct and eye-catching, they don’t feel out of place; they just feel like a part of the city’s rich and unique tapestry. Here’s a perfect example of what I mean:

Out of all the cities we visited in Italy, Rome definitely had the most to see and do, so buckle up: this will be a long post! But as always, before we get into the fun stuff, I’ll start with the boring (i.e. practical) things…

Where We Stayed In Rome

When researching hotels for our Italy trip, we were looking for three things: affordability, location, and quality of accommodations. When it came to finding hotels that met all three criteria, Rome definitely posed the greatest challenge out of any city we visited! Because it’s Italy’s most visited destination, hotels in Rome are very expensive, especially the closer you get to the city centre. We couldn’t afford to stay in the city centre, so we ended up booking Hotel Domidea, which is located about a half an hour cab ride away. With the exception of our Naples hotel (where we spent our last night so we’d be close to the airport), Domidea was definitely our least favourite hotel of the trip. Things could have been worse (at least the room felt relatively clean) but all I’ll say was that this hotel provided a very no frills experience. The kicker is that it was just as expensive as some of the other nicer hotels we stayed at, simply because it was in Rome. (It’s true what realtors say, it really is all about location, location, location!) So, sadly, I can’t recommend a hotel in Rome. But if you’re planning a multi-city Italy trip, I’d advise you to raise your budget (and lower your expectations) when it comes to Rome accommodations. It’s just the way it is!

Getting Around Rome

As with all the cities on our itinerary, we travelled to and from Rome by train. While there, we got around via taxi (and lots and lots of walking!) Rome does have Uber, but it tends to be expensive and unreliable, so we used the FREENOW taxi app, which worked out well for us. We took a taxi from our hotel to the city centre every morning, and back each night, and walked to and from all the attractions we visited. Rome is very large compared to cities like Florence and Venice, and the attractions are more spread out, so we definitely did the most walking in Rome. We easily cleared 30,000 steps a day, and one day we even hit 40,000! My best advice for Rome is to plot out your daily itineraries strategically, concentrating your activities in specific areas and planning to cover different areas of the city on different days. I always do this when we travel anyways, but it’s especially important in Rome! If you’re staying outside the city and trying to save money on taxis, consider cabbing to a point further away from the city centre, and walking the rest of the way to your destination. We saved a ton of money doing this! I really didn’t mind the walking because it allowed us to see different, less touristy parts of the city – and it definitely helped burn off all the pizza and gelato we were eating!

And now that the logistics are out of the way, I’ll get onto the fun part…

Things To See & Do In Rome

The Colosseum – I figured I may as well start this list with the most iconic attraction in Rome! The Colosseum was built in 80 AD and was used for everything from gladiator games to animal hunts to executions. It’s the largest amphitheatre ever built, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and frequently ranks first in lists of the world’s most visited tourist attractions. Seeing the Colosseum from the outside is impressive enough, but touring the interior was a must for both Tania and I. When in Rome, after all! We booked these priority entrance tickets through Headout, which cost $35 CAD a person and include access to the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill. It’s strongly recommended to purchase Colosseum tickets in advance, as onsite waiting times can range anywhere from 45 minutes to three hours. The tickets we bought give you a specific entry time for the Colosseum, but allow you to visit the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill at anytime on the same or next day. The tickets were fast and efficient – we got in within a few minutes – and they also include an audio tour that you can download on your phone. Visitors can walk around both the first and second levels of the arena, as well as through the interior galleries, where you’ll find architectural drawings and ancient artifacts.

The Arch of Constantine – This triumphal arch was built in AD 315 to celebrate emperor Constantine the Great’s victory over Maxentius at the Battle of Milvian Bridge. It’s the largest triumphal arch in Rome, and a popular tourist attraction. The arch is located just outside the Colosseum and is free for the public to visit, but if you do purchase Colosseum tickets, you can get a great view of the arch from the second floor of the arena.

The Roman Forum & The Palatine Hill – Walking around the Colosseum was an amazing experience, but if I’m being honest, I was even more impressed by the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill! I believe that most (if not all) Colosseum tickets are combination tickets, which will get you into all three attractions, but be sure to double-check this before you book so you don’t miss out on the full experience. The Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill are located right next to the Colosseum, so we headed there directly after our Colosseum visit.

The Roman Forum was the political center of ancient Rome. This square houses the ruins of several ancient Roman government buildings and monuments, including the Temple of Divus Julius, Basilica of Maxentius and House of the Vestals.

The Palatine Hill is the most famous of Rome’s Seven Hills, and is one of the oldest parts of the city. It was where Rome’s first king Romulus founded the city, and was once home to the imperial palaces of the Roman emperors. Today, the beautiful green space is an open-air museum where visitors can see ancient palatial ruins, along with some incredible views of Rome. Between the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill, both Tania and I felt the Palatine Hill was the most awe-inspiring. Plus, it was relatively uncrowded compared to the others: perhaps due to its sheer size, or perhaps because the Colosseum gets all the hype. Either way, be sure you visit all three sites, and allocate at least half a day. We didn’t have much time in Rome, so we only had about four hours to explore. The time was sufficient, but we could have easily spent a whole day here!

Trevi Fountain – Of course, you can’t visit Rome and not see the Trevi Fountain – it would be practically criminal! This iconic fountain is one of the most popular sights in Rome, so crowds are inevitable. Most travel bloggers will recommend getting there in the wee hours of the morning – as early as 5:30 am – in order to experience the fountain in (relative) quiet and get the best photos. We had originally planned on getting to the fountain early, but not that early – the goal was between 7-8 am. But between a general lack of sleep and the distance of our hotel from Rome’s city centre, we gave up on that goal, and got to the fountain around 8:30/9 am instead. My two cents? This will go against the advice of likely every travel blog you’ve ever read, but unless you’re a serious photographer or Instagram influencer whose heart is set on a solo photo by the fountain, I really don’t think it’s worth it to get there so early. Now, if you’re up early anyways or you happen to be staying close to the fountain, then go for it! But even though it was crowded by the time we arrived, we still got to snap some nice photos, throw our coins in, and appreciate the beauty of this historic landmark. Sure, our photos had tons of people in them – but one could argue that they truly captured the authenticity of Rome!

Spanish Steps – Located just a ten-minute walk from the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps connect the bustling Piazza di Spagna to the stunning Trinità dei Monti church above. The 135-step staircase is the longest and widest staircase in all of Europe. It was funded by French diplomat Stefano Gueffier, designed by architects Francesco de Sanctis and Alessandro Specchi, and built from 1723-1725. The steps garnered worldwide attention after making a cameo in the 1953 film Roman Holiday, and are a popular spot for people-watching. Climb to the top for beautiful panoramic views of the Piazza di Spagna below. I knew the Spanish Steps would be busy, but I was honestly surprised by just how many visitors there were – almost as many as at the Trevi Fountain! All that to say: if you’re keen on experiencing the steps without the crowds, plan to arrive early in the morning.

The Pantheon – This former temple is one of the most famous architectural landmarks – not just in Rome, but in the entire world. It was first built around 25 BC by Marcus Agrippa (son-in-law of the first Roman Emperor Augustus), rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian after being destroyed in a fire, and dedicated around 126-128 AD. Because it’s been in continuous use over the centuries, this architectural icon is remarkably well-preserved. Fun fact: the Pantheon is one of the most frequently replicated buildings in history! You can tour the inside of the Pantheon for 10 Euros, or simply admire it from the outside – but again, prepare for crowds! While you’re in the Piazza della Rotonda, be sure to stop and see the Fontana del Pantheon: this beautiful marble fountain – circa 1575 – is famous for its six-metre-tall, hieroglyphic-covered obelisk.

Villa Borghese – This sprawling public park (Rome’s third largest) is home to nearly 200 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens, scenic viewpoints, monuments, statues and villas – including the Villa Medici and of course, the Villa Borghese itself. The Villa Borghese was once the elaborate country home and private art gallery of Scipione Borghese, an Italian cardinal and art collector. Today it’s a public gallery – the Galleria Borghese – that displays antiquities from the 1st to 3rd centuries AD, along with classical and neoclassical sculptures. We didn’t visit the Galleria (though we did see it from the outside) but we did spend an entire morning exploring the stunning gardens around the park! Don’t miss the Passeggiata Del Pincio, which boasts lush tropical gardens, over 200 statues of historical figures, and an overlook with a fabulous view of the Piazza Del Popolo below. Other must-sees include the towering Italian Stone Pine trees in the Piazza di Siena, the Temple of Asclepius (you can rent a rowboat at the adjacent pond), and the formal gardens outside the Galleria Borghese. The park is huge, so expect to do lots of walking! If you’re looking for a quicker way to get around, you can rent bicycles or rickshaws onsite. We saw lots of people in the electric rickshaws and they looked like so much fun!

The Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel – A trip to Rome wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Vatican City. If you’re interested in history, art, architecture, or religion (or all of the above) then I highly recommend spending a day at the Vatican Museums – plus, technically you’ll get to say you’ve been to two countries on one trip! We purchased these skip-the-line tickets for $42 each on Get Your Guide. I highly recommend booking advance tickets – the Vatican Museum is one of the world’s largest and most visited museums (second only to the Louvre) and it will be busy! The museums have 24 galleries with over 20,000 artworks on display, including some of the world’s most famous Roman sculptures and Renaissance paintings. My personal highlights include the statue-filled Sala Rotonda, the ornate Gallery of Maps, the whimsical Hall of Animals, and the ethereal Hall of the Chariot. Of course, the Sistine Chapel is a major highlight for most, but it was all the gorgeous galleries leading up to the chapel itself – including the Raphael Rooms – that truly wowed me. I think I got permanent neck strain from all the time I spent looking up at the stunning frescoed ceilings! The Sistine Chapel is, of course, a masterpiece – but no photos are allowed, so you’ll have to take my word for it (or just Google Image it!) Some important things to know before visiting the Vatican Museums:

• Allocate at least half a day, and more time if you can. We spent the entire afternoon here, and could have easily stayed longer.
• Abide by the dress code: visitors cannot expose their knees or upper arms/shoulders, or wear anything low-cut. This means no shorts or skirts/dresses that fall above the knee, so plan on wearing pants or a longer skirt/dress. I practically live in midi dresses, so I was fine on that front, but most of my dresses are sleeveless, which would pose an issue. I just made sure to carry a shawl with me that day, so I could cover my shoulders in the museum. Be sure to have something on hand to cover up, as you don’t want to get all the way to the museum and not be allowed in!
• One thing we didn’t realize is that the Vatican Museums tickets don’t include access to St. Peter’s Basilica. Access to the basilica is actually free, but you have to wait in line to get in, and you can expect to wait as long as two hours. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to wait and had to skip the basilica, so if it’s on your must-visit list, be sure to plan ahead!

Castel Sant’Angelo – This grand castle in Parco Adriano was built as a mausoleum for the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the second century, and converted into a papal fortress 400 years later. Today, the imposing landmark is a museum that houses art, medieval artifacts and military memorabilia. It’s located on the west side of the River Tiber, close to Vatican City, so it’s definitely worth stopping by when you’re walking back to downtown Rome after your Vatican visit. Walk across the Ponte Sant’Angelo for the best views of the castle! This ancient bridge is also famous for its collection of ten angel statues sculpted by Lorenzo Bernini, each holding an instrument of the Passion of Christ.

Piazza Navona – This bustling square, lined with busy shops and restaurants, is known for its ancient history (it was built on the site of the Stadium of Domitian, circa 80 AD) and its beautiful Baroque art, particularly its three famous fountains: the Fiumi, the Fountain of Neptune and the Fountain of the Moro. The Fiumi stands in front of the Church of Sant’Agnese. It was designed in 1651 by architect and sculptor Gian Lorenzo Bernini for Pope Innocent X, and depicts four river gods and an Egyptian obelisk. The gods represent rivers of the four continents through which papal authority had spread at the time: the Nile of Africa, the Danube of Europe, the Ganges of Asia and the Rio de la Plata of the Americas.

The Fountain of Neptune was sculpted by artists Antonio della Bitta and Gregorio Zappala in the 19th century. It depicts the Roman sea god Neptune battling an octopus, surrounded by mermaids, cupids and walruses. (Isn’t mythology fascinating!?)

Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary – Tania adores cats, so when I came across this place when researching Rome attractions, I knew it was a must-visit! This incredible sanctuary has been taking care of feral cats for decades, and it happens to be in a very unique spot. The shelter is located in Largo Di Torre Argentina, where Julius Caesar met his tragic end in 44 BC. It was so neat not only to visit this historic site in person, but to see how it’s been repurposed for the greater good. The site is located below street level in a busy neighbourhood of downtown Rome; another great example of the integration of ancient Roman ruins with modern city life. The sacred square was excavated in 1929, and it wasn’t long before stray cats started taking refuge in the protected area below the street (cats are nothing if not resourceful!) For years, they were fed by well-meaning “cat ladies”, including glamorous Italian movie star Anna Magnani (not exactly your prototypical cat lady!) In the 1990s, two women – Lia Dequel and Silvia Viviani – realized that the cats needed a better quality of life, and started raising money to help them. In 1993, the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary was officially founded, and thanks to generous donors, a dedicated team of volunteers, and worldwide press coverage, it is now a thriving operation. Volunteers come every day to feed, medicate, and spay/neuter the cats. The shelter adopts out an average of 125 cats per year, and provides a permanent home for senior or disabled cats who are less likely to be adopted. As animal lovers, it made both Tania and I so happy to see these cats so loved and well cared for.

Giardino Degli Aranci – Also known as the Parco Savello, this pretty park is located on the Aventine Hill, one of Rome’s famed Seven Hills. Its name (which translates to “orange tree garden”) refers to the several orange trees growing within the park. The garden was designed by Raffaele De Vico in 1932, and its site was once occupied by an ancient fortress, built by the Savelli family between 1285-1287. In fact, the wall that borders the garden today once surrounded the Savelli castle. In addition to its towering citrus trees, Giardino Degli Aranci is known for having one of the best views in Rome! And despite its popularity, I found this garden to be one of the most peaceful spots we visited in Rome.

Roseto Comunale – Located a bit further down on the Aventine Hill is this lush and vibrant rose garden. Like the Giardino Degli Aranci above it, this park is open to the public and completely free to visit. It boasts over 1100 species of roses from all over the world, many of which have won special awards. The Roseto Comunale was first established in 1931, and in my opinion, it’s one of Rome’s prettiest attractions. I especially loved walking through the rose-covered tunnel towards the top of the park!

Trastevere – When I was reading travel blogs, seeking inspiration for our trip to Rome, one word kept popping up again and again: Trastevere. This artsy, bohemian neighbourhood is one of the prettiest areas of Rome. Once a working-class district, today its narrow cobblestone streets are lined with chic shops, cafés and trattorias. Trastevere’s brightly coloured, ivy-laden buildings are a sight to behold, and they lend the area such a distinct charm. Although the neighbourhood was bustling when we went on a Sunday, it seemed to be filled with far more locals than tourists. So if you’re looking to escape the touristy side of Rome, head across the Tiber to Trastevere! Admire the stunning churches (the Basilica of Santa Maria and Chiesa di Sant’Agata are especially beautiful), check out the hip boutiques (Alcazar Market, which doubles as a music venue, was a favourite of ours) or simply grab an Aperol Spritz on one of the area’s many sidewalk patios, and partake in some people-watching.

Santa Maria in Campitelli – The city of Rome is home to an astounding number of churches (over 900, in fact!) so I won’t pretend to know which are the most historic, beautiful or otherwise noteworthy. But I thought I’d share this one, since I found it particularly interesting! Admittedly, we happened upon this church completely by accident. We were caught in a sudden downpour, and decided to pop inside to get out of the rain. But both Tania and I found ourselves in awe of how beautiful this church is! The Baroque-style building was designed by architect Carlo Rainaldi and constructed in the 17th century. The ornate gilded icon behind the altar is a sight to behold, and the side chapels, painted by notable Roman Baroque artists, are equally worthy of attention.

Well, if you’re still with me… thank you! I hope you enjoyed this post, and that it proves helpful for any of you planning your own trip to the Eternal City. If you have any questions about our experiences in Rome, feel free to email me or comment below – I’d love to hear from you!

Until next time, I hope you all have a wonderful week ahead!